Tuesday, January 19, 2010

In the Beginning, Part 2

I have taken a few sewing classes in my lifetime: in junior high when I made an apron with pockets across the bottom made from border fabric with puppies on it. Then there was the summer after junior high when I took a class at a sewing store. I made a jumper (sleeveless dress meant to be worn with a blouse under it...I don't think they make them anymore) and blouse. I misunderstood what the instructor meant when she told me to "sew the facing" to the jumper. Since I had already sewn the facing to the jumper, she actually meant tack it so it didn't show. I was marked down by a friend's mother who judged our "fashion show" at the end of the class. I was sorely disappointed and aggrieved that I be marked down for doing just what the teacher said...so I thought! The fashion show was also the first time I wore stockings. (Yeah, I am old enough to be part of the pre-panty hose generation. Sigh.) I also took Home Ec in high school and made a culottes, which is another obsolete term I realize, and matching vest. I have taken a couple of classes as an adult as well. It is always fun to get together with others who share your enthusiasm for sewing and to learn new techniques.

The one thread that ran through nearly every class was getting ready to start a project and preparation of materials. As far as prepping materials, universally I was told to treat the fabrics as I would treat them in the finished product before cutting the pattern. So, if I am making a quilt or garment that will be washed and dried in the dryer, I wash and dry the fabric first. That makes sure that any shrinkage happens before the the pieces are cut out. Three reasons for this: First is that it would be disastrous to find out that the garment you so meticulously made now doesn't fit after it was worn only once and then washed!! Second is that with a project that requires several different fabrics (quilt, for example) it is entirely possible that the fabrics may shrink at different rates which may cause some areas to pucker and others not. And third, is that some dyes will "bleed" and you want that to happen before you sew the navy piece next to that pure white piece!! (Colors that bleed are usually darker ones...red, green, navy and black.) There are exceptions to the pre-treat rule. If the project is one that will not be cleaned...a wall hanging, say, you can keep the crispness of the newly purchased fabric and be alright. Having said that, not washing the sizing and other chemicals out may cause you problems with adhesives like Wonder Under if you use it for applique.

A few tips for washing fabrics: For larger pieces you can zigzag along the cut edge to stabilize it so it won't unravel. A pair of pinking shears used on the edge will also help if you don't want to sew all the edges. For smaller pieces and, in particular strips and fat quarters, a mesh bag works wonders for keeping the fabric from both unraveling and tying itself into knots. :)

And, if you should ever venture into couture sewing and use specialty fabrics like velvet, for example, you might want to consider dry cleaning the fabric before proceeding. (Actually, it's always good to check the care label on the bolt...) Do you remember when I couldn't find an appropriate formal dress for a NATO function when we lived overseas? I took a deep breath, bought a length of velvet at an exorbitant price, hand-stitched lace to make the lace bodice and took it all to the cleaner to pre-treat it before diving in. It was the biggest (read: most expensive) garment project I have done and I was really nervous, but it turned out pretty nicely, if I must say so.

As an aside...Measure twice and cut once!! Someone told me to remind you of that maxim and it seems to fit here! You certainly don't want to make a mistake that you have to re-do, especially on expensive or hard-to-replace fabric! Enough for now...

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